Thursday, Mar 11th, 2010

Traditions — August 2, 2009 14:02 — View Comments Written by: Heather V.

Surfing in Hawaii

Surfing

Surfing in Hawaii can be traced back to the early 1500’s where petroglyph carvings described native Hawaiians riding long narrow boards carved from wood and rounded at the ends.  But, the very first description of it was not written till 1779 by Captain James KingHe’e nalu or wave riding was a past time the Native Hawaiian enjoyed in their everyday lives passing the tradition of surfing down to each generation. Unfortunately, by 1890 much like their tradition of hula — surfing was nearly shot.  As more missionaries came to Hawaii they saw this sport to be a waste of time or a hedonistic act and preached against doing it.  A kapu (A set of rules and prohibitions as mandated by the Hawaiian traditional culture and religion) was put on surfing.

Photo credit: Erin Williamson

Photo credit: Erin Williamson

In 1905, a young surfer by the name of Duke Kahanamoku and his friends began surfing the Waikiki shores again.  By this time the preaching of the missionaries had diminished and the push for their ways where not as strong.  Duke and his pal’s formed a surf club called “Hui Nalu” or “The Club Of The Waves”.  These guys would later be credited for reviving the sport and would be known as the famous “Beach Boys of Waikiki“.

Photo credit: Joe Philipson of Philipson Photography

Photo credit: Joe Philipson of Philipson Photography

Surfing became an everyday sport to Hawaii’s lifestyle and started to produce the most talented surfers known. The Ho brother’s Derek and Michael, Butch Perreira, Eddie Aikau, Rell Sunn, Rabbit Kekai, and China Uemura are just some of the thousands of talented Hawaii residents passionate about surfing.

Here are a few of Hawaii’s Surfing Competitions and Events:

The sport or art of surfing has come a long way from the days of our native ancestors. But once you get the feeling, bit or the passion for this world wide sport you become a part of it and it apart of you!

Which surfer inspired you to paddle out?

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  • Jazzeri V.
    Well I'm not a surfer, but I love body boarding. Being trapped in Nanakuli, and having nothing else to do, as Heather, I just loved being in the water. And as Heather, being the only girl with all the boys, showing them I can do the same thing. And even taking some lessons on sand sliding. Anyway, Heather, you wrote a very informational piece. I didn't know "people" enforced a kapu on surfing back in the day. Surf on babe!
  • There were lots of surfers that influenced me when I was growing up but the ten that really inspired me and my style were: Duke Kahanamoku, Dane Kealoha, Buttons Kaluhiokalani, Larry Bertlemann, Michael Ho, Gerry Lopez, Jan Asuncion, and the Napoleon Brothers (Aaron & Darryn).
  • bisher30
    Thanks for your comment Don.. It's always nice to hear from other surfers about who and what drove them to take up surfing. For me it was my love for the beach and being the only girl out of all boy cousins.. I had to show them that girls can hold their own in this sport too. Thanks again.
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