Summer in Hawaii: Shave Ice

Photo credit: Michael Whalen

Originally brought to Hawaii by Japanese immigrants who worked on the sugar cane plantations, shave ice is a year round treat for islanders and tourists alike. As simple as can be, the concoction of ice and syrup has somehow become the quintessential local experience, on the level of giving and wearing lei and throwing someone a shaka. Yes, eating shave ice is a universal local phenomenon.

With a recipe as simple as shaved ice scooped into a paper cone, bowl or cup and flavored syrup, the specifics become all important. Purists know that the traditional shave ice comes only, and I mean only in a waxed paper cone. Period. Now, as for the consistency of the ice…is it crunchy like the Japanese kakki-kori, or fine and melt in your mouth like Waiola’s shave ice? And the syrup…Malolo? Is there really any other kind?

And then there is the rivalry. Oh, yes, you know the one. Matsumoto’s, Aoki’s or Wailoa’s? All basically the same recipe, yes? Many will argue a resounding, “No!” Most everyone has an opinion and a personal favorite.

Once the decision of where to go for your shave ice is made, the ordering can begin. Like the Soup Nazi on Seinfeld, each shave ice establishment has their own “rules” for ordering. Be ready to give the total quantity of shave ice for your order, the sizes, fillings (if any) and finally, syrup choices. While standing in the long line, read the ordering instructions carefully to keep up the appearance of being an expert.

Not sure what to order? Start with the golden standard; a large rainbow shave ice. This combination often consists of a plain mound of ice with vanilla (blue), strawberry (red), and lemon or banana (yellow)—although each shave ice stand may have their own recipe for what they consider as “rainbow”. Feeling adventurous? Then try a large adzuki with ice cream and three of your favorite flavors. Or for the truly daring, order a sweet sour li hing mui shave ice, whose flavor is not to be had anywhere else in the known world. The addition of condensed milk is usually a good choice on most orders, though don’t combine this with the li hing flavor (don’t say I didn’t warn you)!

To have the full shave ice experience, three things must be done:

1. Sit and eat your shave ice on the creaky, sticky wooden benches located in the front of the shop. Make sure to step in the almost dried up syrup that has fallen on the sidewalk, so that your rubber slipper makes a slapping sign as you walk.
2. Use the small wooden spoon to mush the ice and syrup together as you eat to create a slushy, icy liquid, which should be slurped up with the tiny straw you were given at the counter.
3. Get ready to take a nap, since by now, the plate lunch you had a few hours ago has now been deliciously topped off.

Do you have a favorite shave ice story to share? What is your vote for the best shave ice?

Update: Reader Nina Wu writer for the Honolulu Restaurant Examiner suggested Island Snow in Kailua, and we agree!